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P U B L I C P O
L I C Y A N D I N T E R N A T I O N A
L
A F F A I R S
"Matters of Taste"
Online Recipes
The recipes that follow are adaptations from other cooks'
formulas, and in
one case, a recipe entirely my own. Cooks generally know that
ovens are not
all the same, and such prescriptions as "medium onion" and "
small potatoes"
can mislead. These recipes will work; but every cook will want to
experiment
and adapt. I hope that they are useful.
ROAST TURKEY
(adapted from Gloria Bley Miller)
(About 20 servings)
6 slices fresh ginger root |
2 tablespoons sugar |
4 scallion stalks |
1-1/2 teaspoons salt |
3 cups soy sauce |
1/2 teaspoon pepper |
1 cup sherry |
1 turkey (ca. 16 lbs) |
10 cups water |
1 tablespoon sesame oil |
1 head lettuce |
6 star anise |
1. Slice ginger root and trim scallion stalks; combine in
a large, heavy
saucepan with regular soy sauce, sherry, water, sugar, star
anise, salt and
pepper. Bring to a boil.
2. Wipe turkey with a damp cloth and lower into pan.
Bring to boil
again; then simmer, covered, 45 minutes, turning once or twice
for even coloring.
Meanwhile, heat oven to 350 degrees.
3. Transfer bird and some of its stock to a roasting pan.
Roast 1
hour, basting with stock at 10-minute intervals.
4. Sprinkle bird with sesame oil. Turn oven up to 450
degrees. Let
bird brown thoroughly (10-15 minutes more); then remove and let
cool
slightly.
5. Shred lettuce and arrange on a serving platter. With
a cleaver,
chop turkey, bones and all, in bite-size pieces. Arrange over
lettuce and
serve.
I did not chop up, but instead sliced, the breast meat, as in
more
conventional American usage. Of course Chinese foods are most
commonly served
so that they can be taken from a main dish without anyone needing
to cut
anything.
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SALT-PEPPER CURED TURKEY
(Irene Kuo)
1 teaspoon Szechuan peppercorns
4-1/2 tablespoons salt
1 small turkey, about 6 lbs.
1. Measure peppercorns into small frying pan and cover
with
salt.
Set pan over very low heat and roast for about
6 minutes
until peppercorns are smoking a little and salt is slightly
browned, shaking pan and
occasionally tossing salt and pepper with a spatula.
Pour mixture into a dish to cool.
2. Rinse and drain turkey and its neck and giblets.
Place turkey in a shallow pan or container and
put
miscellaneous parts around it. When salt mixture is cool enough
to handle, rub it
all over bird thoroughly, inside and outside, particularly over
meaty breasts, thighs
and legs.
Roll neck and giblets in salt that has been
shaken into the
pan.
Cover pan securely with aluminum foil and
refrigerate for 7
days -- yes, that's right, she says 7 days -- turning turkey a
few times for even
salting.
3. Drain and discard liquid and brush off surface
peppercorns from
turkey.
Rinse and dry pan and replace bird in it,
scattering
miscellaneous parts
around it.
Set up a steaming pot - large roasting pan or
soup
kettle.
Place turkey pan on rack, cover, and steam for
45 minutes
over high heat,
replenishing water every 10-15 minutes to maintain vigorous
steam.
Turn off heat and let turkey sit tightly
covered, for 15
minutes.
Stick wooden spoon or pair of chopsticks
through its cavity,
lift turkey up
to drain a little, then place it, plus neck and giblets, on a
platter.
Strain and save juice for cooking noodles or
seasoning
vegetables.
When turkey is cool, cover with aluminum foil
and refrigerate
until thoroughly chilled before serving.
The key: Care to be given to steaming process. The
steaming pot
must be
large, containing a substantial enough quantity of water to
generate strong
steam, and deep enough for the steam to circulate freely over the
turkey. The
pan with the turkey must be well raised, so no water bubbles can
get inside
to dilute flavor. A kettle of boiling water should be kept in
readiness over
low heat for replenishment. If the space between the pan
containing the
turkey and the steaming pot is tight, insert a funnel into the
crack and add
the boiling water through it to prevent the water from spilling
into the
turkey pan.
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AVOCADO FOOL
(2 recipes, one adapted from Charmaine Solomon,
and one from Jane Grigson)
Jane Grigson's Recipe
3 avocados
2 limes or one large lemon
icing sugar (powdered sugar)
5 fl oz. Heavy cream
Peel avocados, cut into blender jar, or sieve through a
mouli-
légumes. Slice
limes or lemon into halves, and cut one thin slice from the
middle; divide
each lime slice into three, or cut one lemon into six wedges and
set aside.
Squeeze the juice from the rest of the limes or lemon, and add it
to the
avocados, together with a tablespoon of the sugar. Blend the
avocados to
produce a smooth cream, or stir the sieved avocado firmly in
order to produce
an even mash. Whip the cream until stiff, fold it into the pur�e,
and add more
sugar to taste.
Divide between six glasses and chill two hours. Decorate
with the wedges,
serve with shortbread fingers.
Charmaine Solomon's Recipe
3 large fully ripe avocados
caster sugar (i.e., fine or powdered) to taste
1 cup cream (I think heavy)
dash of rum, optional
Cut avocados in halves lengthwise, remove seeds and
reserve [important].
Scoop pulp from shells and mash smoothly with a fork. Add sugar
to taste and
stir in the cream. Put into serving bowl, return seeds to the
pulp, cover
closely with plastic wrap, and chill before serving.
The seeds keep the pulp from darkening. Don't ask me how,
or why -- but
they
do, especially if the plastic wrap shuts out all air, and is on
the surface of
the pulp.
Add if desired sweetened whipped cream on top, and/or
decorate with thin
slices of avocado with lemon juice squeezed on them, added at the
last
moment.
Rum can be beaten into the mixture when the avocados are
first whipped, if
you like that taste.
My own take on this is... Make sure the avocados
are ripe but
firm. I like to mix the little Hess ones
with a couple of the large Floridas. I add powdered sugar and
whipped cream,
but don't much care for the rum -- too strong for the dish. I
don't bother
with the lemon and lime decorations; but a little lemon juice may
bring out
the avocado flavor. Go easy on the sugar; this is an easy dish
to
oversweeten.
The seeds-in-pulp trick is astonishing; it will even work
overnight, if
you're lucky!
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COLUMBIA SALAD A LA CHINOISE
(this is entirely my own)
2 chayotes (Sechium edule Sw., also known as mirliton, chocho,
christophine
and, in Australia, choko) (Nahuatl chayutli, chayotli,
chayotl)
1 medium unblemished jicama (Jatropha macrorrhiza Benth., or
possibly
Pachyrrhizus tuberosus Spreng., also known as gicama, g�quima,
chicoma, etc.)
(Nahuatl jicamatl)
Cook chayotes gently in water (ca. 20-25 mins.), cool, peel and
slice in 3/8"
slices lengthwise.
Peel and slice an equal quantity of jicama, halving the slices to
match the
chayote.
Mix together 6 tbs. Chinese wine, 1 tsp. sesame oil, 1 tsp.
sugar, a pinch of
red pepper flakes, 1-2 tsp Chinese vinegar, and 2-1/2 tbs. light
soy sauce. Add
if you wish half a cup of minced coriander; or a half tsp of
minced ginger.
Stir thoroughly, then pour over the sliced salad; taste to
correct, and chill
for an hour or more. If the dressing is adequate, this salad will
keep in
refrigerator for a week or more. The quantities may be increased
as necessary.
These quantities should be just enough for two chayotes, and part
of a small
jicama.
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Bon appetit!
Sid Mintz
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NOVEMBER 1998 TABLE OF CONTENTS.
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